Tales from the Peninsula: Il fantasma di Diego Maradona

While waiting to depart from the Fuorigrotta area of Naples after yet another disappointing performance in what was effectively a title-deciding game. My girlfriend (Campania born and Naples raised) turned to me and said: “Napoli are stuck in the ’80s and are still living the old glory days instead of living in the present and future.”

As we left Naples under the shadow of loss and the newly named Stadio Diego Armando Maradona I could only agree.

Naples, wherever you turn in this one club city you are sure to see Maradona’s portrait somewhere. Either in shop windows, behind bars, or in street art, his face is without exaggeration absolutely everywhere and with good reason. Serie A has had many great players who have influenced teams and changed footballing history. However, it would be unfair to compare them with Maradona. 

Diego Maradona was much more than a footballer, he was a sportsman who transcended his own sport and became something greater. Maybe the best footballer who ever lived chose to play in Naples, which at the time was seen by many as the poorest city in Western Europe.  Even if in his personal life he was hardly a man of moral virtue, he defended his adopted city and is seen as a hero of the poor. Born into poverty, he not only made it to the summit of the sport but planted his flag deep into the rock. He was seen by some as a modern-day Masaniello, who was a poor fisherman who became leader of the revolt against Spanish rule in Naples in 1647. Just like this, Maradona gave the people of Naples hope. His achievements can be seen not only in footballing terms but also in social ones and should not be forgotten by Neapolitans or by the world in general. However, like Masaniello, Maradona is someone of the past.

Since his death in November 2020, the club and the fans, in general, have become even more fixated on Maradona. The team bus is now covered in his image, the club have released several jerseys worn by the players which sport his face and fingerprint and, as mentioned before, the stadium itself has been re-named. It could seem to many that Maradona has become more important than the club. This kind of idol worship can only have negative repercussions.

Like the biblical story of Lot’s wife, who as she looked back at the destroyed cities of Sodom and Gomorrah became a pillar of salt. Napoli is risking a similar fate, becoming a pillar of salt. Frozen, unable to move, focused only on the stationary past without the ability to move into the future. 

The past needs to be remembered for all the great experiences rejoiced and the terrible ones suffered but not be re-lived. Napoli in the recent past has had a number of opportunities to win another scudetto but has always fallen short. Why? The quality has been there, as have the tactics, the key ingredient missing has been mentality.

Of course, it is easy to say, change the mentality of the club and you’ve fixed the problem. The process of such a change is typically painful, long, and often fruitless. There are many examples of owners trying and failing in realigning a club’s culture and it just not working out. With their current approach, I believe that Napoli will never be a massive club, like Juventus or Milan (much to the fans’ displeasure). When Napoli are in a title race and they need a performance worthy of a Scudetto winning match they are more often than not absent. Obsessing with past glories and comparing current players with dead greats will only lead to continuing defeat or worse.

The sad thing is that this recent defeat was not what was ‘meant’ to happen. The game in question was Napoli vs Milan and before the game, there were the usual scenes of bedlam. The gates were due to open at 6pm for a 8.45 kick-off and so we arrived at about 5.30. There were already queues at every gate. There was a real feeling of urgency and impatience like a train station during rush hour. Press and local media were interviewing passing fans and when they were asking for English speakers I was very close to taking the opportunity but faux modesty got the better of me. We quickly ate a parigina which due to the feeling of haste neither of us truly enjoyed, made a bee-line to our gate, passed through the turnstiles, found our seats, and waited as the stadium filled. Before the game, they (quite rightly) played a number of anti-war messages and songs in response to the conflict in Ukraine. John Lennon’s Imagine was a particular highlight. 

However, it was immediately followed by the chant ‘Milano in fiamme’ which was comical in its absurdity. Napoli ultras often chant this kind of song in response to teams from the north of Italy who sing songs about Monte Vesuvio drowning Napoli once more in its lava. Returning to Maradona over the loudspeakers, we also heard La mano de dios by Rodrigo, which was awe-inspiring. That chorus being sung by tens of thousands of Neapolitans is special. The stadium formerly known as the San Paolo really is an exceptional place.

During the warm-up, Maradona appeared again and this time ‘in the flesh’. Live is Life by Opus was played with the famous footage of Maradona’s ball-juggling masterclass before a game with Bayern Munich from 1989. It was somewhat like a modern Queen concert I presume. With video of Freddie Mercury performing some of his biggest hits and other iconic moments. But unlike singing with Freddie this was an unwelcome spectre adding more pressure to a team already under great strain.  Looking down at the pitch, compared to the other team Napoli looked disorganised. Running and passing without clear intent or reason. Whereas Milan were calm, collective, and going through the motions of a typical warm-up. Later on the forwards that day were taking shots on goal, and barely anyone scored. It was an omen of the game to come.

The game itself was poor, Milan were not at their best but Napoli was simply terrible. After a promising opening few minutes, with the ultras giving it their everything, it seemed that maybe Napoli would be able to do the double over Milan. And then nothing. The game really did fade into nothingness. The first half was uneventful other than the lively Rafael Leão and two potential penalties, one for each side. After the break, Milan scored early and then managed the game (wasted as much time as possible) to victory. But Napoli were the ones at fault, for no matter how many times Milan broke up the rhythm of the game they should have been able to counter that.

The sensation after the game was truly devastating, going back to presumptions I would imagine watching your team losing a cup final at the Olimpico would create a similar feeling. After the game, my girlfriend described me as being ‘nero’ in mood. Dark, moody, negative. And here we come full circle.

Napoli’s shirt has always weighed heavily on the backs of those talented and lucky enough to wear one but coupled with Maradona’s ghost now it seems impossible to play in. And this must change. Even if it means saying a final and true ‘addio’ to Diego.